This story was quite different account than my other
adventures, as this time I was alone for a whole week. First five days and
nights I spent in the Hașmaș Mountains. After that I went to the Ceahlău
Mountains for the rest of the week; though this is another story to tell you
about.
A simple drawing of the Hașmaș Mountains I had for
the trip. For me it was good for navigating through unknown area.
It wasn’t easy to be alone in mountains of Romania,
especially at evenings. Though, day by day I grew more comfortable with being
alone in the wilderness and at the end I only regretted when the adventure was over.
I initially had not planned to set off alone on my mountain
adventure. I talked with several Romanian friends about that before. In the end
only a girlfriend from Bucharest said that maybe she could accompany me in the
Hașmaș.
When I arrived in Brașov I learned that she was not
able to set off on a week long journey. Having learned this I had barely time
to jump on a train to Miercurea Ciuc (railway line Satu Mare-Brașov)! There I
changed the train (railway line Ciceu-Adjud).
Immediately after leaving the city the train started
to climb up through picturesque countryside of hills, valleys, forests and meadows.
After that the railway line descended into the valley and passed through Luncă
de Jos.
I got off at Tarcău station, which appeared to me like
it was in the end of the world.
There I quickly discovered by asking people where to
go toward the beginning of the trail at Valea Întunecoasa. In fact there was
not any tourist marking, though my 30 years old guide said that the principal
route on the Hașmaș crest begins right here in Valea Întunecoasa.
Entry into the valley.
My backpack ready at the begging of the trip.
Well, there was the only lane in between houses which
led parallel with the axis of the valley, so there I went.
Road leading into the mountains.
Stream descending from the mountains.
I left one house after one behind me and soon I was on
a forest road, going continually deeper into the valley. I found a well and
filled my bottles with water for the evening and morning because I had no way
to know whether I would find any water source up there in the mountains.
A fountain from where I took water.
In narrow part of the valley I met a car going opposite direction. The car stopped and a policeman sitting inside it asked me
where I was heading such late at evening. I gave him reply in Romanian that I
was going toward the principal crest and have a plan to spend this night at a
sheepfold. The answer was that I should be careful with fierce sheep dogs. I
responded that I am familiar with them and know what I should do to protect
myself against them. The policeman also asked from where I have learned
Romanian. I gave him a reply that I learned it by talking to girls of Romania.
A little later I talked with elderly man, who advised
me not to make a detour on the forester route and to go on a path direct with
the river instead, which was a shortcut.
I crossed two fences en route and soon I entered in
upper part of the valley, which was more open, with pastures replacing
coniferous forest.
Mountain pastures replacing coniferous forest
From there I could clearly saw mountain pass where I
needed to get. From a distance I observed a group of sheep going through the
saddle. I knew there would be annoying sheep dogs around them so I lingered
around for a while until the sheep crowd moved out of my way.
The situation below the saddle, explaining my action. This is common in the Carpathian Mountains.
I reached the saddle, turned right and walked briskly
toward the highest point. Arriving there I discovered that I can hardly tell
one peak from another one. I had no map with me. All I had was old written
description in Czech and a scheme, which was a drawing showing only principal
crest and valley. The geographical situation here was far more complex.
Written description for the trail in its entirety. In Czech language.
In fact I was on a place where two ridges meet. The
principal crest continued toward north-west, while the lateral range paralleled
the west-east axis. I came from the west (in fact I climbed from east) on a
lateral ridge. There were no indicators showing directions and I barely knew
which direction I should go. All I knew was that I need to get to Nașcalat Peak
(1566 m). An option for me was to ask sheepherders about directions. I saw a
sheepfold on the left, so I went directly there.
The saddle seen from above. The sheepfold is on the opposite side.
At treeline in the Hașmaș Mountains.
Winding road and a sheepfold at a distance.
Approaching the sheepfold I met with a herd of dogs
first. I shouted at a nearby sheepherder to make him to calm down his dogs. He
did so, and my unlikeable situation bettered. Unluckily this man did not speak
Romanian. He was a member of Hungarian minority. Together we went to meet with
his colleague, who spoke few words in Romanian. From him I got a clue where to
go. It was clear that I need to continue to north-west to get to Nașcalat. I
told them to order their dog not to follow me further.
When I was at distance of several hundred meters the
dogs start to chase me out of their territory. I briskly went in direction of
another sheepfold. First group of dog had stopped following me and the second
one has appeared! I was lucky enough that a sheepherder was nearby and shouted
at them. The basic rule of acting with sheep dogs in Romania is that you need
to meet with their master primary. When you meet with dogs first you might get
yourself into a trouble, especially is a sheepherder is far away or behind a
horizon.
I walked on a narrow crest and soon reached a top with
a cross. I thought that I arrived at Nașcalat. The only feature I missed here
was a tourist refuge, which was supposed to be on east side of the top, as it
was confirmed by my Romanian friend.
The top with a cross, which I believed it was Nașcalat peak.
Here was coniferous forest on east side! Well, the
peak must be the other one, a little bit further, from which I was separated by
a little saddle.
Just below the top on descend to the saddle I
discovered a deserted sheepfold. I was in a good condition and instead of
erecting a tent I decided to overnight inside it.
Deserted sheepfold was in good condition.
When darkness has fallen on Earth, I wrote several messages
to my friend and went out to make some night photos of my shelter with starry
skies over it.
Starry skies in the Carpathian Mountains.
I set off at about 7:30 AM. In several minutes I
arrived on Nașcalat Peak. The tourist refuge was there on east side. I was glad
that I hadn’t arrived there on the previous evening because nearby was an active
sheepfold and that would meant yet another meeting with annoying sheep dogs.
The sheepfold in the morning. True Nașcalat Peak is in background.
Looking back on mountain pastures from where I came a day before.
The ridge leads to the north.
Tiny tourist shelter below Nașcalat Peak.
Looking back at Nașcalat Peak.
Immense pastures of the Hașmas Mountains.
Air with haze was not perfect for landscape photography.
Typical landscape in the Hașmaș Mountains-meadows, spruce forests and limestone rocks.
The air grew hotter in proportion with the increasing
height of the sun. I walked on the descending ridge, where forest and meadow
alternated. Two times I stopped to wait for a herd of sheep to move out of my
way. The air was rather hazy and with the sun high in the sky it was difficult
to make a satisfactory photograph of the landscape. From Sacadat Peak (1397 m)
I descended to a wide pass, through which a road leads. It connects Bicajel
Valley (Trei Fântini) with the Olt Valley (Bălan).
Old proverb says that horses were put on the Earth to make the land beautiful.
Beyond the saddle.
Entering the national park.
Ecem Peak seen from its south base.
South part of the Hașmaș Mountains.
After crossing the saddle I entered in Hașmas National
Park, where non-authorised motorized access is forbidden, as it was shown on a
panel hanging from a tree.
First I climbed on a meadow and soon I entered in the
shadowed forest. There I unexpectedly met with another group of sheep and several
dogs, which started to bark at me. Luckily the sheepherder shouted at them and
they calmed down immediately.
Soon I emerged out of the coniferous forest on a
plateau of Ecem Peak (1708m). Very close to tourist trail was a deep abyss. The
opening of the shaft had about 3 m in diameter and 20 m in depth at least. A
single written table attached to a pole standing nearby warned visitors that
there was a danger of falling down the abyss (the abyss could be dangerous at
night or at foggy conditions with snow cover).
A what?
Now it's clear, right?
On a margin of the plateau I stopped to have a lunch.
Some cumulonimbus clouds were building on the north-east and I expected them to
come here in the afternoon. Luckily today they never came and I revelled in
warm sunshine all day long.
Mid-day view from Ecem Peak.
On Ecem Peak.
Rocky west face of Ecem Peak.
From the plateau I descended toward Piatra Singuratică;
which is well known isolated limestone rock for which Hașmaș is famous for.
Here I ate my lunch.
Looking at Hașmaș Mare. Piatra Singuratica is barely seen above a forest line in the middle of the image.
Descending from Ecem peak.
First view of Piatra Singuratica.
Only 20 minutes away...
by this rocky and muddy sheep trail...
a nice scene along the trail...
Looking back at Ecem Peak.
Piatra Singuratică.
Piatra Singuratică.
At the base of the rock there is a mountain chalet
named cabana Piatra Singuratică, which provides simple accommodation and meals.
Without road access things necessary for luxury recreation are missing here,
keeping all modest and simple.
I ordered a beer and a coffee, sold here for a modest
price, and settled down on grass next to the hut. Later I made on my stove an
instant soup. After that I climbed the rock for views. The look-out was
perfect.
Cabana Piatra Singuratică.
Climbing Piatra Singuratică.
Climbing Piatra Singuratică.
Hașmaș Mare seen from Piatra Singuratică.
Looking back at Ecem Peak.
Cabana Piatra Singuratică below my feet.
Work horse at cabana Piatra Singuratică.
Let's explore this trail...
the trail is well marked with blue cross...
Trail leads though beautiful coniferous forest.
Looking down at town of Balan.
Looking back at Piatra Singuratică.
Cabana and rock Piatra Singuratică.
South part of the Hașmaș Mountains.
After I descended down to the lodge I took a decision
to remain here for the rest of the day. I left my backpack in the chalet and
set off for Piatra cu Pânda, (Watch Rock) which offers superb view toward
Bălan. The trail was marked with blue cross and I got there in 30 minutes.
Views were beautiful indeed. From there I clearly saw the chalet and a carriage
pulled by a horse going down dirt road.
On my return a strongly illuminate cliffs of Ecem attracted
my eyes. I left the trail and went off trail toward the edge of a huge talus at
the base of Ecem Peak. I was in shadow of the forest and from my position I
soon made out two adults of a chamois at a distance of about 100 m.
They were quite far away for a good photo. I had only
100 mm lens along with me. I regretted that I don’t have a better lens for taking
wildlife photos, which still is on my wish list. I tried to get closer in order
to make animals larger in the frame. I hid among boulders. My approach was
easy, because the sun was behind me. I was excited and had a feeling that there
is no other place on Earth where I would rather be.
Evening at cabana Piatra Singuratică.
In the evening I asked the hut keeper if I could build
my tent next to a chalet. He told me that the hut is empty and that I could stay
there for free and offered me free meal too.
The morning was cloudy and no vivid colours appeared
at sunrise. After breakfast I packed my backpack, said good bye to hut keeper
and left toward Hașmas Mare Peak (1793 m).
Morning at Piatra Singuratică and it's surroundings.
The weather began to deteriorate when I approached
Hașmas Mare Peak, though it wasn’t raining. The tourist path (red stripe)
bypassed the peak and I did so. After the peak the trail descended toward Poiana
Alba. I feared to hike through there alone. I heard stories about fierce sheep
dog which welcome every visitor with bark and snarl.
On Hașmaș Mare Peak.
On Poiana Alba.
In fact all houses there were deserted. The only dogs
I saw there were several individuals running along the edge of the forest on
the other side of the meadow. There were running fast along the edge of the
forest. I lingered around until they came back to their group of sheep. I
continued walking when they disappeared behind a corner.
I was frightened by them, though later I discovered
that they were not as dangerous. I met with them at a tourist refuge, which
looked identical to that below Noșcalat Peak.
I talked to the young shepherd, who was from village
Trei Fântini in Bicajel Valley. He admired my good knowledge or Romanian.
A shelter on Poiana Alba.
Peat-bog meadows in central Hașmaș.
My next destination for the day was a rock named
Ciofranca (1608
m). Meanwhile dark clouds disappeared and sun came out. I climbed Ciofranca via
steep trail, equipped with a steel rope at one stretch. Its top offered views
toward Lacu Roșu and Cheile Bicazului, my destination for tomorrow.
Ciofronca.
Looking North.
Under the peak I had a lunch and after that I walked
for more two hours on a boring section toward Pângarați Pass. At the pass were
some kiosks which offered some souvenirs for tourists though none had beer on
offer.
Looking back at Ciofronka.
North of Pângarați Pass.
I filled my water bottle with fresh water from a pipe
on the side of the road and rested for a while. Here I have completed the first
portion of my traverse of the Hașmas Mountains. North of the saddle begins its north
part, which is a bit different then the south section.
Here I contemplated for a while about events of last
three days in relation to my next actions. Did I really want to continue hiking
beyond the saddle? Or I wanted to come down to Lacu Roșu instead? And would I
have enough time to do the Ceahlău massif? What would I do if the weather
deteriorates? I came all the way from my country to do the crest of Hașmaș, so
there were no excuses for giving up at the middle of the trip!
The weather was perfect. It was about 5 o’clock in the
afternoon, so I moved forward on dusty road. At first a dusty road may sound
like quite a disadvantage; though needless to say that in relation with walking
in the mountains word “dusty” sounds much better than word “muddy.”
From the saddle I followed red stripe marks and in
less than one hour I arrived at an intersection. To continue on the main ridge
I needed to follow the blue stripe marks. I did so and after a while a there
was another intersection with blue dot marked trail. Well, I will follow the
blue dot, I thought, hoping it will get me to better looking area. Here cleared
forests were mixed with meadows. Sheep has disappeared and cows appeared.
At first I walked on level path, which gradually
turned steep. I left clearings behind me and entered in thick spruce forest.
Then as a miracle I crossed a saddle and walked in beautiful mountain meadow.
Views toward south opened and I admired the grandeur of the landscape before
me. As a surprise I saw a small cottage, which was at my level, approximately
300 meters away from me. I walked directly there and to my surprise I
discovered a tourist refuge. The cottage was new and clean. There was no one
around! That meant that I had whole shelter entirely for myself. A wave of
relief and happiness went through me. I had a home for tonight! And it was
placed on most beautiful place I ever saw on this trip!
Surprise below Licaș Peak.
I put my equipment inside the shelter and with my
camera and tripod I set off for the top of Vf. Licaș.
Storm is approaching.
I ascended on a steep meadow and only last portion
below the crest was covered with spruce forest. I walked on narrow trail
sneaking through grasses, which alternated with dim forest. The trail ended
suddenly at the end of the crest. I realized that I reached the top itself.
Next to a trail was an abyss. Its shaft was a round hole in earth, several
metres in diameter and very deep indeed. The opening was fenced and as a guard
there stood a lily (Lilium martagon). I took a picture of the lily with the
abyss in background. Very near was a clearing in the forest, which offered
limited views on surrounding mountains.
On descend I saw a storm approaching. With luck I got
to the refuge before a rainstorm began.
After the rain the air smelled fresh and grasses were
wet. I was tired, thus I stayed inside the refuge, without going out to perform
night photography.
In the morning the air was clear and gave splendid
view toward the Ceahlău Mountain.
I took several photos of its silhouette against coloured
dawn sky.
In front of the shelter Licaș.
Licaș Peak with a shelter and sheepfold.
Leaving Licaș.
An hour later I saw a cold front coming from the west. I
packed my equipment and set off on blue cross marked trail in direction of Lacu
Roșu. An indicator in a saddle below the refuge was the first and last
mark I ever saw there. I walked on the ridge. At first walking through not-too-thick
spruce forest was easy. Later the trail almost disappeared and fallen trees
blocked the way and began to rain. I put on my raincoat and hiked further on a
crest which became steeper and forest become thicker.
I got wet soon, and walking was far away from being
comfortable. I gave up going on the crest and descended to
the right.
A highway for me.
Walking at the bottom of the valley was a nightmare.
The stream was blocked with fallen trees; there was no path in the valley all
was overgrown with dense vegetation. For a while I walked in the river, on
other places I climbed steep slopes to avoid rocks. The adventure took about
two hours until I got on forest road. At first only tractor track appeared, however
for me it looked like a highway at the moment!
I emerged in the main valley at the upper end of Lacu
Roșu. I walked along its edge until I got to a group of kiosks and restaurants.
There I took a rest and ate a lunch. The air temperature under cloudy sky was
about 20°C. The biggest relief came when I put off wet hiking boots and put on
dry sandals.
Finally at the lake.
I spent there a considerable time, thinking about what
my next steps will be. I wanted to overnight in the area, so I asked the stuff
at the restaurant whether there was any good place for camping. There were no
official camping zones in the area, but I got information that there is a
private camping ground by the road at the upper end of the lake.
There I went and soon I built my tent on wet grassy
ground in fenced court. The place was not the perfect one, though for a single
night it was okay. The price was 15 lei (3.50,- EURO), which was rather a steep
fee for a piece of wet grassy terrain, in my opinion. Staying there gave me
possibility to leave my weighty backpack in the place and to hike in the area
without being burdened under serious load.
Lacu Roșu area.
I visited Resort Lacu Roșu, where I found a general
store to my satisfaction, because I was running out of food. Later I was
interviewed by Romanian TV. In the interview, in Romania language, I gave advices about where to go in the area.
In the evening I climbed Suhardul Mic, a high rock
above the lake, with great views on Cheile Bicazului, my destination for the
next day.
In the morning I left the camping ground quite late,
at about 11 o’clock! First I circled the lake, to take some landscape
photographs.
Then I walked on paved road to the resort, where I
made a short pause and the store. After that I emerged in the Cheile Bicazului
Gorge. The road passes through it in serpentines and with a tunnel. On several
places are kiosks with souvenirs. People and cars were everywhere.
Entry at Cheile Bicajelui.
I opted to explore Cheile Bicajelui instead. There
were no people at all, only nature. Immediately after leaving the road it
started to rain. I put on my raincoat and continued the trip. After half an
hour the rain had stopped and I enjoyed typical landscape of the Carpathian
Mountains, which consists of perfect combination of lush meadows, forests, rivers
and rocks. However, this side trip got me back to Lacu Roșu at the evening.
I visited the store again to get some beer. Unluckily,
I left my back and hiking boots outside on the pavement when I was shopping.
During ten minutes I spent inside the store it rained heavily and all my gear
was wet. Rain cloud came out of blue, I had no clue that it was going to rain!
I had no desire to overnight on the same wet place as
the night before. Yesterday I noticed that there were some small cottages to
rent nearby, next to hotel.
I went to the hotel and asked about price for renting
a hut or a single bed in it. The price was 40 lei (approx. 10 EURO) for a
cottage. I accepted it, being happy that I will have dry place to sleep at, and
electricity to charge my 2 phones.
Later I discovered that only 3 km down the gorge there
is a hut Cabana Cheile Bicazului, with the price of 15 lei per night/single
bed.
In front of the hut in the morning.
The morning was clear, though in the valley I had no
views for making photographs.
I left the hotel, setting off on the same road as I
went yesterday. The first part was a repetition of my track of the day before.
I also made a short detour and climber a rock named Maria-kó, which offered nice
view on a lonely rock Piatra Altarului. The climb was very steep indeed, though
worth of the effort.
A side trip to Maria-ko.
Side trip to Maria-ko and a smal waterfall next to the road.
I climbed down on the road and continued without
interruption toward the lower end of the gorge. In increasing heat I arrived at
village Bicaz Chei and explored small gorge Cheile Șugăului. I don’t have enough time to explore the gorge
in its entirety. I stayed there about an hour, relaxed in the sun and ate my
lunch there on green grass.
In Cheile Șugăului.
In the afternoon I hitchhiked to the town of Bicaz.
This town lies at the foot of the Ceahlău Mountain and here ends first part of
this story. The second part will be a description of my two day trip to the
Ceahlău Mountain. This mountain is so special among Romanian mountains that the
story needs to be told in the separate chapter.
I made a resume
of my trip and discovered that I spent only a single night in my tent in Hașmaș
and that I could do the whole trip without the tent. But who could know it
beforehand! I had no plans to sleep in huts on this trip. Huts simply appeared
where they were needed and I took the advantage of them. Though in Ceahlău I
used my tent twice, so in the end, carrying the tent was worth of the effort.
It would be much better if I were not alone, thus I had no one to share with
the weight of the tent and stove. Also I was missing a person to share my feelings with. As Chris McCandless, Alexander Supertramp-a type from the novel "Into the Wild", puts it in his diary: "HAPPINESS IS ONLY REAL WHEN SHARED." Maybe next time I will find the right person
for going with me on yet another mountain adventure.
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