středa 18. února 2015

A solo adventure in the Hașmaș Mountains

This story was quite different account than my other adventures, as this time I was alone for a whole week. First five days and nights I spent in the Hașmaș Mountains. After that I went to the Ceahlău Mountains for the rest of the week; though this is another story to tell you about.
A simple drawing of the Hașmaș Mountains I had for  
the trip. For me it was good for navigating through unknown area.

It wasn’t easy to be alone in mountains of Romania, especially at evenings. Though, day by day I grew more comfortable with being alone in the wilderness and at the end I only regretted when the adventure was over.

I initially had not planned to set off alone on my mountain adventure. I talked with several Romanian friends about that before. In the end only a girlfriend from Bucharest said that maybe she could accompany me in the Hașmaș.

When I arrived in Brașov I learned that she was not able to set off on a week long journey. Having learned this I had barely time to jump on a train to Miercurea Ciuc (railway line Satu Mare-Brașov)! There I changed the train (railway line Ciceu-Adjud).
Immediately after leaving the city the train started to climb up through picturesque countryside of hills, valleys, forests and meadows. After that the railway line descended into the valley and passed through Luncă de Jos.

I got off at Tarcău station, which appeared to me like it was in the end of the world.
There I quickly discovered by asking people where to go toward the beginning of the trail at Valea Întunecoasa. In fact there was not any tourist marking, though my 30 years old guide said that the principal route on the Hașmaș crest begins right here in Valea Întunecoasa.

                                                      Entry into the valley.

                                My backpack ready at the begging of the trip.

Well, there was the only lane in between houses which led parallel with the axis of the valley, so there I went.

                                            Road leading into the mountains.

                                       Stream descending from the mountains.

I left one house after one behind me and soon I was on a forest road, going continually deeper into the valley. I found a well and filled my bottles with water for the evening and morning because I had no way to know whether I would find any water source up there in the mountains.

                                       A fountain from where I took water.

In narrow part of the valley I met a car going opposite direction. The car stopped and a policeman sitting inside it asked me where I was heading such late at evening. I gave him reply in Romanian that I was going toward the principal crest and have a plan to spend this night at a sheepfold. The answer was that I should be careful with fierce sheep dogs. I responded that I am familiar with them and know what I should do to protect myself against them. The policeman also asked from where I have learned Romanian. I gave him a reply that I learned it by talking to girls of Romania.

A little later I talked with elderly man, who advised me not to make a detour on the forester route and to go on a path direct with the river instead, which was a shortcut.
I crossed two fences en route and soon I entered in upper part of the valley, which was more open, with pastures replacing coniferous forest.
                                Mountain pastures replacing coniferous forest

From there I could clearly saw mountain pass where I needed to get. From a distance I observed a group of sheep going through the saddle. I knew there would be annoying sheep dogs around them so I lingered around for a while until the sheep crowd moved out of my way.

            The situation below the saddle, explaining my action. This is common in the                                                      Carpathian Mountains.

I reached the saddle, turned right and walked briskly toward the highest point. Arriving there I discovered that I can hardly tell one peak from another one. I had no map with me. All I had was old written description in Czech and a scheme, which was a drawing showing only principal crest and valley. The geographical situation here was far more complex.
                     Written description for the trail in its entirety. In Czech language.

In fact I was on a place where two ridges meet. The principal crest continued toward north-west, while the lateral range paralleled the west-east axis. I came from the west (in fact I climbed from east) on a lateral ridge. There were no indicators showing directions and I barely knew which direction I should go. All I knew was that I need to get to Nașcalat Peak (1566 m). An option for me was to ask sheepherders about directions. I saw a sheepfold on the left, so I went directly there.
            The saddle seen from above. The sheepfold is on the opposite side.

                                      At treeline in the Hașmaș Mountains.

                                    Winding road and a sheepfold at a distance.

Approaching the sheepfold I met with a herd of dogs first. I shouted at a nearby sheepherder to make him to calm down his dogs. He did so, and my unlikeable situation bettered. Unluckily this man did not speak Romanian. He was a member of Hungarian minority. Together we went to meet with his colleague, who spoke few words in Romanian. From him I got a clue where to go. It was clear that I need to continue to north-west to get to Nașcalat. I told them to order their dog not to follow me further.

When I was at distance of several hundred meters the dogs start to chase me out of their territory. I briskly went in direction of another sheepfold. First group of dog had stopped following me and the second one has appeared! I was lucky enough that a sheepherder was nearby and shouted at them. The basic rule of acting with sheep dogs in Romania is that you need to meet with their master primary. When you meet with dogs first you might get yourself into a trouble, especially is a sheepherder is far away or behind a horizon.

I walked on a narrow crest and soon reached a top with a cross. I thought that I arrived at Nașcalat. The only feature I missed here was a tourist refuge, which was supposed to be on east side of the top, as it was confirmed by my Romanian friend.

                   The top with a cross, which I believed it was Nașcalat peak.

Here was coniferous forest on east side! Well, the peak must be the other one, a little bit further, from which I was separated by a little saddle.

Just below the top on descend to the saddle I discovered a deserted sheepfold. I was in a good condition and instead of erecting a tent I decided to overnight inside it.


                                    Deserted sheepfold was in good condition.
When darkness has fallen on Earth, I wrote several messages to my friend and went out to make some night photos of my shelter with starry skies over it.


                                     Starry skies in the Carpathian Mountains.

I set off at about 7:30 AM. In several minutes I arrived on Nașcalat Peak. The tourist refuge was there on east side. I was glad that I hadn’t arrived there on the previous evening because nearby was an active sheepfold and that would meant yet another meeting with annoying sheep dogs.

                The sheepfold in the morning. True Nașcalat Peak is in background.

           Looking back on mountain pastures from where I came a day before.

                                              The ridge leads to the north.

                                 Tiny tourist shelter below Nașcalat Peak.

                                         Looking back at Nașcalat Peak.

                                   Immense pastures of the Hașmas Mountains.

                    Air with haze was not perfect for landscape photography.

Typical landscape in the Hașmaș Mountains-meadows, spruce forests and limestone rocks.
The air grew hotter in proportion with the increasing height of the sun. I walked on the descending ridge, where forest and meadow alternated. Two times I stopped to wait for a herd of sheep to move out of my way. The air was rather hazy and with the sun high in the sky it was difficult to make a satisfactory photograph of the landscape. From Sacadat Peak (1397 m) I descended to a wide pass, through which a road leads. It connects Bicajel Valley (Trei Fântini) with the Olt Valley (Bălan).


  Old proverb says that horses were put on the Earth to make the land beautiful.

                                                       Beyond the saddle.

                                               Entering the national park.

                                     Ecem Peak seen from its south base.

                                      South part of the Hașmaș Mountains.

After crossing the saddle I entered in Hașmas National Park, where non-authorised motorized access is forbidden, as it was shown on a panel hanging from a tree.
First I climbed on a meadow and soon I entered in the shadowed forest. There I unexpectedly met with another group of sheep and several dogs, which started to bark at me. Luckily the sheepherder shouted at them and they calmed down immediately.
Soon I emerged out of the coniferous forest on a plateau of Ecem Peak (1708m). Very close to tourist trail was a deep abyss. The opening of the shaft had about 3 m in diameter and 20 m in depth at least. A single written table attached to a pole standing nearby warned visitors that there was a danger of falling down the abyss (the abyss could be dangerous at night or at foggy conditions with snow cover).

                                                          A what?

                                                     Now it's clear, right?

On a margin of the plateau I stopped to have a lunch. Some cumulonimbus clouds were building on the north-east and I expected them to come here in the afternoon. Luckily today they never came and I revelled in warm sunshine all day long.


                                            Mid-day view from Ecem Peak.

                                                       On Ecem Peak.

                                             Rocky west face of Ecem Peak.

From the plateau I descended toward Piatra Singuratică; which is well known isolated limestone rock for which Hașmaș is famous for.

                                                  Here I ate my lunch.

Looking at Hașmaș Mare. Piatra Singuratica is barely seen above a forest line in the middle of the image.
                                             Descending from Ecem peak.

                                             First view of Piatra Singuratica.

                                                  Only 20 minutes away...


                                         by this rocky and muddy sheep trail...

                                           a nice scene along the trail...

                                          Looking back at Ecem Peak.
                                                         Piatra Singuratică.

                                                           Piatra Singuratică.

At the base of the rock there is a mountain chalet named cabana Piatra Singuratică, which provides simple accommodation and meals. Without road access things necessary for luxury recreation are missing here, keeping all modest and simple.
I ordered a beer and a coffee, sold here for a modest price, and settled down on grass next to the hut. Later I made on my stove an instant soup. After that I climbed the rock for views. The look-out was perfect.

                                                   Cabana Piatra Singuratică.

                                               Climbing Piatra Singuratică.


                                              Climbing Piatra Singuratică.

                                     Hașmaș Mare seen from Piatra Singuratică.

                                          Looking back at Ecem Peak.

                                   Cabana Piatra Singuratică below my feet.


                                    Work horse at cabana Piatra Singuratică.

                                                   Let's explore this trail...

                                      the trail is well marked with blue cross...

                                  Trail leads though beautiful coniferous forest.

                                            Looking down at town of Balan.

                                         Looking back at Piatra Singuratică.

                                        Cabana and rock Piatra Singuratică.

                                        South part of the Hașmaș Mountains.

After I descended down to the lodge I took a decision to remain here for the rest of the day. I left my backpack in the chalet and set off for Piatra cu Pânda, (Watch Rock) which offers superb view toward Bălan. The trail was marked with blue cross and I got there in 30 minutes. Views were beautiful indeed. From there I clearly saw the chalet and a carriage pulled by a horse going down dirt road.

On my return a strongly illuminate cliffs of Ecem attracted my eyes. I left the trail and went off trail toward the edge of a huge talus at the base of Ecem Peak. I was in shadow of the forest and from my position I soon made out two adults of a chamois at a distance of about 100 m.


                               



 They say that to distinguish sex of the chamois from a distance you need to observe it when one urinates.
                                     Chamois at scree slope below Ecem Peak.

They were quite far away for a good photo. I had only 100 mm lens along with me. I regretted that I don’t have a better lens for taking wildlife photos, which still is on my wish list. I tried to get closer in order to make animals larger in the frame. I hid among boulders. My approach was easy, because the sun was behind me. I was excited and had a feeling that there is no other place on Earth where I would rather be.




                                           Evening at cabana Piatra Singuratică.
In the evening I asked the hut keeper if I could build my tent next to a chalet. He told me that the hut is empty and that I could stay there for free and offered me free meal too.

The morning was cloudy and no vivid colours appeared at sunrise. After breakfast I packed my backpack, said good bye to hut keeper and left toward Hașmas Mare Peak (1793 m).




                           Morning at Piatra Singuratică and it's surroundings.

The weather began to deteriorate when I approached Hașmas Mare Peak, though it wasn’t raining. The tourist path (red stripe) bypassed the peak and I did so. After the peak the trail descended toward Poiana Alba. I feared to hike through there alone. I heard stories about fierce sheep dog which welcome every visitor with bark and snarl.




                                                On Hașmaș Mare Peak.








                                                            On Poiana Alba.

In fact all houses there were deserted. The only dogs I saw there were several individuals running along the edge of the forest on the other side of the meadow. There were running fast along the edge of the forest. I lingered around until they came back to their group of sheep. I continued walking when they disappeared behind a corner.
I was frightened by them, though later I discovered that they were not as dangerous. I met with them at a tourist refuge, which looked identical to that below Noșcalat Peak.
I talked to the young shepherd, who was from village Trei Fântini in Bicajel Valley. He admired my good knowledge or Romanian.

                                               A shelter on Poiana Alba.



                                     Peat-bog meadows in central Hașmaș.

My next destination for the day was a rock named Ciofranca (1608 m). Meanwhile dark clouds disappeared and sun came out. I climbed Ciofranca via steep trail, equipped with a steel rope at one stretch. Its top offered views toward Lacu Roșu and Cheile Bicazului, my destination for tomorrow.

                                                       Ciofronca.

                           Lacu Roțu and Suhardul Mic seen from Ciofronca.

                                            Ceahlau Mountain seen from Ciofronca.

                                              Entry at a visitor book I made atop Ciofronca.

                                                                       Looking South.

                                                              Looking North.

Under the peak I had a lunch and after that I walked for more two hours on a boring section toward Pângarați Pass. At the pass were some kiosks which offered some souvenirs for tourists though none had beer on offer.
                                                   Cross atop Ciofronka.

                                                        Looking South.


                                          Looking back at Ciofronka.

                                  An indicator with arrows, showing directions.
                                                                     At Pângarați Pass.

                                       An indicator with arrows, showing directions.

                                                             Me at Pângarați Pass.

                                                              North of  Pângarați Pass.

                                                                   North of Pângarați Pass.

I filled my water bottle with fresh water from a pipe on the side of the road and rested for a while. Here I have completed the first portion of my traverse of the Hașmas Mountains. North of the saddle begins its north part, which is a bit different then the south section.

Here I contemplated for a while about events of last three days in relation to my next actions. Did I really want to continue hiking beyond the saddle? Or I wanted to come down to Lacu Roșu instead? And would I have enough time to do the Ceahlău massif? What would I do if the weather deteriorates? I came all the way from my country to do the crest of Hașmaș, so there were no excuses for giving up at the middle of the trip!

The weather was perfect. It was about 5 o’clock in the afternoon, so I moved forward on dusty road. At first a dusty road may sound like quite a disadvantage; though needless to say that in relation with walking in the mountains word “dusty” sounds much better than word “muddy.”

From the saddle I followed red stripe marks and in less than one hour I arrived at an intersection. To continue on the main ridge I needed to follow the blue stripe marks. I did so and after a while a there was another intersection with blue dot marked trail. Well, I will follow the blue dot, I thought, hoping it will get me to better looking area. Here cleared forests were mixed with meadows. Sheep has disappeared and cows appeared.

At first I walked on level path, which gradually turned steep. I left clearings behind me and entered in thick spruce forest. Then as a miracle I crossed a saddle and walked in beautiful mountain meadow. Views toward south opened and I admired the grandeur of the landscape before me. As a surprise I saw a small cottage, which was at my level, approximately 300 meters away from me. I walked directly there and to my surprise I discovered a tourist refuge. The cottage was new and clean. There was no one around! That meant that I had whole shelter entirely for myself. A wave of relief and happiness went through me. I had a home for tonight! And it was placed on most beautiful place I ever saw on this trip!





                                              Surprise below Licaș Peak.

I put my equipment inside the shelter and with my camera and tripod I set off for the top of Vf. Licaș.
                                                          An abyss atop Licaș Peak.





                                                   Storm is approaching.

I ascended on a steep meadow and only last portion below the crest was covered with spruce forest. I walked on narrow trail sneaking through grasses, which alternated with dim forest. The trail ended suddenly at the end of the crest. I realized that I reached the top itself. Next to a trail was an abyss. Its shaft was a round hole in earth, several metres in diameter and very deep indeed. The opening was fenced and as a guard there stood a lily (Lilium martagon). I took a picture of the lily with the abyss in background. Very near was a clearing in the forest, which offered limited views on surrounding mountains.

On descend I saw a storm approaching. With luck I got to the refuge before a rainstorm began.

After the rain the air smelled fresh and grasses were wet. I was tired, thus I stayed inside the refuge, without going out to perform night photography.

In the morning the air was clear and gave splendid view toward the Ceahlău Mountain.
I took several photos of its silhouette against coloured dawn sky.
                                                                 Ceahlau mountain.
                                                                      Sunrise.


                                               In front of the shelter Licaș.
                                                 Sunrise seen from Licaș Peak.
                                 Licaș Peak with a shelter and sheepfold.


                                                     Shelter interior, clean and tidy.

                                             Guest book entry I made at the shelter.



                                                  Tourist indicator showing directions.

                                                    Leaving Licaș.

An hour later I saw a cold front coming from the west. I packed my equipment and set off on blue cross marked trail in direction of Lacu Roșu. An indicator in a saddle below the refuge was the first and last mark I ever saw there. I walked on the ridge. At first walking through not-too-thick spruce forest was easy. Later the trail almost disappeared and fallen trees blocked the way and began to rain. I put on my raincoat and hiked further on a crest which became steeper and forest become thicker.
I got wet soon, and walking was far away from being comfortable. I gave up going on the crest and descended to the right.




                                                      Things are starting to be serious...

                                                    A highway for me.

Walking at the bottom of the valley was a nightmare. The stream was blocked with fallen trees; there was no path in the valley all was overgrown with dense vegetation. For a while I walked in the river, on other places I climbed steep slopes to avoid rocks. The adventure took about two hours until I got on forest road. At first only tractor track appeared, however for me it looked like a highway at the moment!

I emerged in the main valley at the upper end of Lacu Roșu. I walked along its edge until I got to a group of kiosks and restaurants. There I took a rest and ate a lunch. The air temperature under cloudy sky was about 20°C. The biggest relief came when I put off wet hiking boots and put on dry sandals.

                                                          Finally at the lake.
I spent there a considerable time, thinking about what my next steps will be. I wanted to overnight in the area, so I asked the stuff at the restaurant whether there was any good place for camping. There were no official camping zones in the area, but I got information that there is a private camping ground by the road at the upper end of the lake.

There I went and soon I built my tent on wet grassy ground in fenced court. The place was not the perfect one, though for a single night it was okay. The price was 15 lei (3.50,- EURO), which was rather a steep fee for a piece of wet grassy terrain, in my opinion. Staying there gave me possibility to leave my weighty backpack in the place and to hike in the area without being burdened under serious load.








                                                     Lacu Roșu area.

I visited Resort Lacu Roșu, where I found a general store to my satisfaction, because I was running out of food. Later I was interviewed by Romanian TV. In the interview, in Romania language, I gave advices about where to go in the area.

In the evening I climbed Suhardul Mic, a high rock above the lake, with great views on Cheile Bicazului, my destination for the next day.

In the morning I left the camping ground quite late, at about 11 o’clock! First I circled the lake, to take some landscape photographs.

Then I walked on paved road to the resort, where I made a short pause and the store. After that I emerged in the Cheile Bicazului Gorge. The road passes through it in serpentines and with a tunnel. On several places are kiosks with souvenirs. People and cars were everywhere.
                                              Rock tower Piatra Altarului in Cheile Bicazului.










                                                            At Cheile Bicazului.

                                                  Entry at Cheile Bicajelui.

I opted to explore Cheile Bicajelui instead. There were no people at all, only nature. Immediately after leaving the road it started to rain. I put on my raincoat and continued the trip. After half an hour the rain had stopped and I enjoyed typical landscape of the Carpathian Mountains, which consists of perfect combination of lush meadows, forests, rivers and rocks. However, this side trip got me back to Lacu Roșu at the evening.









                                           A trip through Cheile Bicajelui.



                                          Panels with maps of the area.




I visited the store again to get some beer. Unluckily, I left my back and hiking boots outside on the pavement when I was shopping. During ten minutes I spent inside the store it rained heavily and all my gear was wet. Rain cloud came out of blue, I had no clue that it was going to rain!

I had no desire to overnight on the same wet place as the night before. Yesterday I noticed that there were some small cottages to rent nearby, next to hotel.

I went to the hotel and asked about price for renting a hut or a single bed in it. The price was 40 lei (approx. 10 EURO) for a cottage. I accepted it, being happy that I will have dry place to sleep at, and electricity to charge my 2 phones.

Later I discovered that only 3 km down the gorge there is a hut Cabana Cheile Bicazului, with the price of 15 lei per night/single bed.

                                             In front of the hut in the morning.

The morning was clear, though in the valley I had no views for making photographs.
I left the hotel, setting off on the same road as I went yesterday. The first part was a repetition of my track of the day before. I also made a short detour and climber a rock named Maria-kó, which offered nice view on a lonely rock Piatra Altarului. The climb was very steep indeed, though worth of the effort.

                                                   A side trip to Maria-ko.





                                 Side trip to Maria-ko and a smal waterfall next to the road.

I climbed down on the road and continued without interruption toward the lower end of the gorge. In increasing heat I arrived at village Bicaz Chei and explored small gorge Cheile Șugăului.  I don’t have enough time to explore the gorge in its entirety. I stayed there about an hour, relaxed in the sun and ate my lunch there on green grass.


                                                    At lower end of Cheile Bicazului.


                                                    In Cheile Șugăului.

In the afternoon I hitchhiked to the town of Bicaz. This town lies at the foot of the Ceahlău Mountain and here ends first part of this story. The second part will be a description of my two day trip to the Ceahlău Mountain. This mountain is so special among Romanian mountains that the story needs to be told in the separate chapter.


 I made a resume of my trip and discovered that I spent only a single night in my tent in Hașmaș and that I could do the whole trip without the tent. But who could know it beforehand! I had no plans to sleep in huts on this trip. Huts simply appeared where they were needed and I took the advantage of them. Though in Ceahlău I used my tent twice, so in the end, carrying the tent was worth of the effort. 

It would be much better if I were not alone, thus I had no one to share with the weight of the tent and stove. Also I was missing a person to share my feelings with. As Chris McCandless, Alexander Supertramp-a type from the novel "Into the Wild", puts it in his diary: "HAPPINESS IS ONLY REAL WHEN SHARED." Maybe next time I will find the right person for going with me on yet another mountain adventure.

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