This adventure belongs among others which should be set
under general caption: Weekends in Romania.
A quote which explains why I do such things.
In the middle of May I returned from the Cernei mountains in Romania. Two weeks later I
could not endure a desire to return again to Romanian mountain paradise.
The Cernei mountains in Romania.
On the weekend of 24-26th of May I was in
our mountains and then a there I arranged with Iulia, via a cell phone, a joint
trip in the Bucegi Mountains for the next weekend. She is a Romanian friend with whom I also was
in mountains of Banat.
From here I arranged our adventure for the next weekend.
The best way how to get to know a new area is to be accompanied
with a local guide. Iulia knows the Bucegi Mts. very well, being born at their
base. She is a real mountain girl, very fit, and what is most important, we get
on very well.
The mountain girl (fata muntilor).
We arranged to meet at Buşteni, which is a small
mountain resort on a railway line leading along the base of the Bucegi
Mountains, on Saturday morning, June the 1st.
On Friday I almost lost my train, because I thought I
lost my wallet, with money and my ID, when I went to buy a toothbrush, which I
forgot at home. I panicked for a moment. Accidentally, I put the wallet in
unusual place, where I found it after my immediate return to the shop, where I
used it for the last time (just a minute earlier).
Iulia also invited a friend of her, named Adi, to accompany
us for the first day of the trip.
The trip begins.
We all three met at train station in Buşteni half an
hour later than we had arranged, due to train delay. To keep up with the
schedule and to shorten our approach to our chosen trail we hired a taxi which
got us to Gura Diham (987 m) at Valea Cerbului.
At the beginning skies were partially clear, though
the forecast predicted rain and snow. A layer of fresh snow had already fallen
on mountain tops a day before.
Above Gura Diham.
A friend of mine just returned from the Leaota
Mountains on May the 30th, when the weather started to deteriorate.
He had a great adventure there, which somehow increased my appetite for a new Romanian
adventure. Yet, this time my prospects were quite different, simply because our
trip was supposed to be different. I focused on exploring new trails in a
mountain range where I had been only once in 2009. My friend’s adventure in the
Leaota was focused on search for wildlife.
I already knew at home that it would be cold in the
mountains, so I brought my winter sleeping bag. Temperature was supposed to
drop to -3°C in the night above the height of 2000 m. I brought that sleeping
bag for two reasons. First: a down feather bag is far lighter and smaller than
that filled with a hollow-fibre; second: I was thinking to give my warmer bag
to Iulia, because women are less resistible to cold.
One advantage to be there with a local, was that she
knew where there are shelters, build especially for tourists, thus there was no
necessity to bring a tent along with us. It meant to save a weight of 3 kg.
In forest above Gura Diham.
Getting off the taxi we pulled out our trekking poles
and started to climb on a marked trail (red band), through fresh spring
greenery. The air was little cold, but we warmed up in uphill effort. Iulia was
talking about the Bucegi, about what went on during her previous adventures
here etc. I talked a lot with Adi, too, who is a fine man in his mid-forties.
He doesn’t fit the mountain environment as perfectly as Iulia does, however he,
too, likes mountains and often goes on mountain trips. For this year he planned
a climb to Musala, the highest peak of the Balkans peninsula, situated in the
Rila Mountains of Bulgaria.
Beech forest below Poiana Izvoarelor.
Soon we reached Poiana Izvoarelor (1455 m) from where
opened vistas on surrounding mountains. Mountain tops were hidden in a cloud
layer, though below them the air was clear.
Poiana Izvoarelor.
The Baiului Mountains seen from Poiana Izvoarelor.
Above Poiana Izvoarelor.
Our next destination was a saddle (Pichetul Roşu) and La
Prepeleac. From there we continued on the red triangle mark. The trail went
almost horizontally on most stretches and beech forest gradually gave way to
mountain spruce forest.
Mountain spruce forest (Picea abies).
Looking toward the heights. Probably looking at Acele Morarului Ridge.
A vista toward the Postavaru massif opened.
Soldanella.
In the gloom of forest.
At La Prepeleac.
Our trail traversed some rocky stretches.
At La Prepeleac.
We were half a day into a trip and Adi felt a need to
start to return to catch a train home on time. I just asked myself, whether it was
worth of the effort for him to come to the Bucegi Mountains for just a half-day
adventure. I learned that I am not alone who does crazy things. I travelled
over 1100 km to be just two days and two nights in Bucegi, except Adi travelled
from Bucharest which is far closer.
Iulia with Adi.
From now on there were just two of us.
We said good bye to Adi and from now on there were
just two of us. Though, for some time we went together with some people going
our way. Before we got to Malaieşti hut, we crossed a few snowfields, reminders
that higher into the mountains we should expect winter conditions.
Above Malaiesti Hut.
Malaiesti.
Malaieşti hut (1720 m) is placed in a huge cirque, famous
for its beauty. The end of the valley is fringed with vertical rocky walls
going up for several hundred meters, until they reach the upper Bucegi plateau.
Their tops were merging with clouds.
At the hut we took a short break for a tea and then
headed up on the last portion of the day. This part was also the most
interesting. In short time we ascended into a saddle on a ridge called Padina
Crucii, where we make a pause for half an hour. Rhododendrons have just started
to bloom and we enjoyed view over flowering shrubs. Pink colours mixed with
green and some white snowy spots were scattered here and there. It was clear
that for next two weeks or even longer time these part would convert into a
pink carpet stretched far and wide on ridges of the Bucegi Mountains.
Flowering rhododendrons, the Postavaru Massif in background.
Ţiganeşti.
After that the trail led us down to the bottom of the
Valea Ţiganeşti, where surrounding scenery looked like Tibet. It was a landscape
with lakes, grassy plains and snowy peaks. I have never been to Tibet, though I
have seen many photographs of it and know how it looks like.
Valea Tiganesti. The Postavaru and Piatra Mare massifs in backdrop.
Valea Tiganesti, panorama.
Below Tiganesti.
Climbing toward Tiganesti.
The last portion of the day was to go up onto a Ţiganeşti
Ridge, where a tourist shelter (2100 m) is located, overlooking a drop toward
Bran. The weather cooperated, cloudy sky alternated with partly cloudy sky and
the sun appeared from time to time.
Evening view from Tiganesti.
Layer of clouds seen from Tiganesti.
Being a novice to the Bucegi Mountains I was surprised
how well-designed the shelter is. It has a form of a semi-dome, red and white
in colour. Inside there are beds and as a replacement for a window, there is a
light pipe, efficient enough to light the whole interior. While there is any daylight
outside, there is light inside, too.
Refuge Tiganesti.
Inside the refuge Tiganesti. Its interior is spacious.
Since days in June are long, we had plenty of time to
make a dinner and afterward I could take some evening photography before we went
to sleep. I did not have many places to choose where from to take pictures,
because strong winds were blowing outside, thus making taking sharp images
impossible. I took several images out of a door opening, where I was protected
against the winds.
We were at high altitude, so we soon started to feel
its effect on temperature. There was cold inside the shelter, so that we had to
stay heavily dressed.
Night view from Tiganesti.
A night spent at 2100 metres.
After our during-the-daylight activity has ceased, we
laid down in our sleeping bags. We talked about many things. Iulia had a
newspaper along with her. Now she pulled it out and in the dim light of a head
torch began to read aloud an article about a goat, called Duţa. She was reading
it slowly, explaining nearly every sentence for me. Explanation was needed, since
Romanian is not my mother language. I think that I learned a lot about Romanian
tongue from Iulia, since we spent a significant time together in this year.
This magic evening is blazed in my memory, as if it happened yesterday.
From Tiganesti Ridge is splendid view in dark of night.
We went to sleep around midnight. I was comfortable in
my winter sleeping bag. It was not the same feeling for a girl resting beside
me. At around 1 AM I asked the girl how she was. She was very cold in her
three-season sleeping sack. I suggested that we would change our sleeping gear.
She accepted it, and I hope she felt warmer in my sleeping sack. I slept inside
her bag, and I must admit, that I was at a lower margin of comfort. I slept,
but woke up, from time to time, due to the cold. In my thoughts I was happy that
Iulia can sleep in the warmer winter sleeping bag.
Cold morning.
Skies were perfectly clear in the morning. I ventured
out with my camera and tripod before sunrise and stayed there until it was well
after sunrise. Snow was hard as a concrete due to low temperatures.
The Sun rises from behind the Piatra Mare massif.
The Postavaru Massif.
Papusa seen from Tiganesti.
Magura Codlei seen from Tiganesti.
Piatra Craiului seen from Tiganesti.
Refuge Tiganesti in first direct sun light.
Iulia is shown on most pictures. To reverse this imbalance I put this self-portrait here.
Just before 9 am dark clouds moved in.
We enjoyed being up and high.
Refuge is located on a perfect spot for views.
Later skies start to fill with vapours and soon we
were in clouds again. It started to snow!
A cushion of Silene acaulis.
After breakfast we talked whether we would continue
toward Omu (2504 m) or not. We were at a snowline; above us all terrain was
covered with a strata of snow.
Omu.
The Postavaru Massif seen through a veil of clouds.
Cloud are moving in.
Below us the air was clear.
Heading up to see what conditions are on the ridge.
Final decision was that we would continue up for half
an hour without our backpacks to verify trail condition.
Looking back into the valley.
The trail was easily passable.
Return to the refuge.
Packing before we go on the ridge.
We were in clouds, climbing on steep rocky trail,
until we reached grassy ridge above rocky band. We saw that there were good
conditions for walking and we both thought that we could go here with our
backpacks. After return to the shelter, it started to rain. Oh, no!
A magic moment.
We were perplexed. One part of our minds wanted to
abandon the trip and to go home; and the other part was telling us to go on, because
it would be perfect up there!
We had an option to go down on the Clincea Ridge,
which would get us to Bran. Or, we could continue upward and hope for a clear
sky.
In the rain I asked Iulia, whether she wants to
continue, even if we would get wet. We both yearned for stay in the mountains
for one more day, and there was no space for retreat in our minds. We both
became determined to continue the trip! The decision was made. We would
continue up to the ridge!
Topping Omu.
We started wearing our rain coats. However, gradually
the rain ceased during the climb on rocky trail. Once we got on the ridge, our
speed increased. The trail was partly covered with snow, partly we walked on
grass. We were on south-exposed slopes now. Below us was immense valley, named Valea
Gaura. Due to the fog, we saw next to nothing down there.
On the top of Omu.
We reached Omu Peak, the highest peak in the Bucegi
Mountains, in almost zero visibility. We took a rest at the lodge, placed
directly below the top of the peak. We sat down and ate hot soup. A while later
arrived three guys in the hut, who were not carrying any rucksacks. They also
ordered a soup, and sat down to eat it. They actually were runners, who were
training for an event named Marathon 7500, which would take place here in late
July. I was happy to hear about that, because I planned to participate on this
marathon, too!
I talked to them briefly and after that, they set off
and soon disappeared in the fog. One of them told me, that yesterday he
participated on the Hercules Marathon in Banat, and today he was training in the
Bucegi Mountains for 7500! I suddenly knew that my training is not sufficient
enough. Actually, I did not participate in the marathon this year, because lack
of training and that I found no co-partner.
Meanwhile I found a colleague and took a decision to join the event in
2014.
Upper Ialomitsa Valley.
Overlooking the Ialomitsa Valley.
The sky was clearing.
The sun in June has great burning power. Here I am with a mask made of sun protection cream.
In Valea Doamnelor.
Running in Valea Doamnelor.
The weather was getting better and soon we had blue
sky overhead. We passed by a tourist shelter
Batrâna, which looks identical with that at Ţiganeşti. Our destination of the
day was a saddle Strunga, where we wanted to overnight in another tourist refuge.
Iulia proposed that we could take a detour through
Valea Doamnelor. I gladly accepted, wanting to see as much terrain as possible.
After crossing a stream in Valea Doamnelor.
Fresh greenery at lower altitude.
Containers are often visited by brown bears. See the broken and repaired fence.
There is a monastery in the valley. Monks also run a small shop here.
Some tourist markings showing the way.
Running up toward Strunga.
June greenery below Strunga.
We made a plan to descend rapidly to Padina and then climb up to Strunga. Soon
the snow gave way to grass while we were running down a trail. The descent was
short. In the valley we crossed a stream of the Ialomiţa River and soon we were
at Peştera. From there we got a little down, passed through narrow part of the
valley next to the Peştera Monastery, and soon arrived at Padina.
There we filed our bottles with fresh water from a
fountain a headed up for the crest again.
In late afternoon sun we both walked briskly upward on
green meadows. I felt like in a paradise, because I was in alpine environment,
in superb weather and with a perfect female partner. Iulia was running uphill
like a gazelle. I stopped then and now to take photos and had difficulty to
keep up with her.
Below Strunga.
Refuge Strunga.
View from Strunga toward East.
View from Strunga toward West.
At Strunga.
Forward-looking I cannot wait to set off to the Bucegi
Mountains again. In my mind I can imagine a joy of rapid movement in the splendour
of the mountains. I have a dream to participate on Marathon 7500 in 2014. That dream already became a plan!
We reached Şaua Strunga well before sunset. We had
plenty of time to enjoy the warmth of the sun and to enjoy ourselves in the
great surrounding of the south-west part of the Bucegi Mountains. We were very
close to the Leaota Mountains, which slopes were already painted with pink
colours, caused by flowering rhododendrons.
Slopes of Leaota.
The second night in the mountains.
Because we were at lower altitude (about 1.900 m), and
there was no snow on the ground, this night was a way warmer than the previous
one.
In the shelter it was quite cold, because there was no
light-shaft, and we had to keep windows open in order to have light inside.
Luckily temperatures did not drop below zero. When we were cooking, Iulia
stayed in the corner next to the burning stove in order to feel warmer.
Inside the refuge.
We both were tired, so that was why I did not ventured
outside for night photography. We stayed inside the shelter and talked to each
other.
Foggy morning.
We overslept sunrise, due to tiredness and because we
kept windows closed for the night. Also there was no clear sky in the morning.
When I finally went outside I saw that everything
around us was enveloped in a veil of fog.
I took only a couple of documentary photos showing our
shelter in the fog.
Refuge Strunga in the fog.
Our plan for today was to descend to Moieciu se Sus or
to Şimon. I had a train home this evening, so we could not stay here longer.
I had no idea which route we should take so I depended
on Iulia to lead our way toward villages.
Leaving Strunga.
On the first stretch we walked on inclined grassy
slopes leading toward Poiana Guţanu. There we had to choose between trails
leading to Şimon on the nort-west or to Moieciu de Sus on the west. I thought
it would be better to go to Moieciu.
Looking back at Strunga.
Above Poiana Gutanu.
Walking downhill was almost eventless, except for a
meeting with several shepherds climbing toward Guţanu. One of them was drinking
ţuica, a local plum brandy, from a glass which he kept handy. Iulia pointed out
that he was probably drinking brandy instead of energy drink.
Meanwhile clouds broke up a sun appeared. We could
stay in t-shirts. Fain weather window did not last long; when we got down into
a valley it was cloudy once more.
Lower down the air grew warmer.
The Bingaleasa River.
There we made a short stop by a river to wash a little
before we get to civilisation.
In Moieciu started to rain again and we had to pull out
our rain coats yet again.
We were lucky and got a bus ride soon. The bus drove
us through rain to Braşov. There we visited Iulia’s relatives, where we ate a
lunch and played with children. I almost forget about time and nearly missed my
train home.
In the comfort of the bus. Outside was raining.
On the next morning I arrived at the Czech Republic.
The weather was horrible, it was raining everywhere and there were floods in
several part of the country. The trip was over, however, in my mind I remained
in Romania.
During this trip I reminded me that it is “bad”
weather which works well for mountain photography. Only in changeable weather
you find exciting and interesting light. In fine weather, you will find
predictably blues skies and you have to gamble on sunrise and sunset
photography. In bad weather interesting moments can appear any time. It is
highly possible that if you venture out in “bad” weather you will return with
“good” pictures in the bag; and vice versa.
See what Galen Rowell says about choosing right weather for landscape photography: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MoU47_WgWfo
See what Galen Rowell says about choosing right weather for landscape photography: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MoU47_WgWfo
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