The best way to learn anything new is to share your
knowledge with others. I think it is quite hard to became good a skilled in any
field of enterprise, when you do not exchange ideas and opinions with your
colleagues.
Sharing knowledge is essential for a progress in any field.
I am interested in mountain trips and in photography
as well. Both passions can be combined together in a million ways. I recalled
myself stating that if I ever would attend a photo workshop, it would be in
Romania. It was because of my passion for Romanian mountains and its
language. Befriending new people in
Romania during last two years, I was lucky to come into a contact with several
photographers, from whom I learned new skills.
Together in the field (HDR image).
In preparation
Social networks work well in this regard. People can
display photographs on them and get some feedback from their followers.
Socializing through the internet stays behind the fact I become acquainted with
people in Romania. We first met on the internet, before we met in reality a
while later.
Together with Ioan in the Bistritza Mountains.
I have been following work of several photographers
and last year I made a resolution to sign in one proposed photo tours in
Romanian mountains. I chose a photo workshop taught by Dorin Bofan. I was
inspired by his passion for following magic light in a realm which he loved-in
a mountain world.
The Ceahlau Plateau seen from the north in winter (the Bistritza Mountains).
I was considering signing in for his late June event
in the Retezat Mountains. The event was filling up quite fast and when I
hesitated for several days before making the final decision, it was occupied.
The moral I learned then was: If there is an opportunity, don’t wait and grab
it right away.
This photo taken in the Bistritza Mountains on last Christmas I made only because I pushed myself out of my sleeping bag and slipped into my wet boots in freezing weather.
An old proverb says that there is always another day.
Following that wisdom I waited for several months and when the time got ready I
signed in for autumn photo tour with Dorin.
Meanwhile I was in Romania for several times to
explore mountains and photography as well, besides learning new words of
Romanian language. This was necessary prior to attend an event where mainly
Romanian would be spoken.
On one of my 40 visits in Romania in the Trascau Mountains.
The workshop was put at the end of October, to
coincide with the height of autumn colours in the mountains, plus it took place
in an area where I have never been before.
The adventure begins
Before setting off for the trip, everything was
arranged via e-mail. Arriving in Sighişoara, on a foggy morning on the 18th
of October, I was picked up by Marin and we continued on in his car through
several mountain passes for Bicaz and to Izvorul Muntelui, from where the track
for to our objective started.
At a parking lot in Izvorul Muntelui.
There we met with the rest of the group, packed on
luggage and hit the trail. The weather was perfect. It was warm and sunny, and
mountain forests were already tinted with many variations of green, yellow, and
tawny colours.
Leaves just started to turn yellow at lower altitudes.
Climbing to Ceahlau.
The level difference between Izvorul Muntelui, from
where we started, and the edge of the Ceahlau Plateau, was a thousand metres,
which took us about three hours to cover. In the workshop proposition was said
that we all would learn one form another, so I presented my trusty Galen
Rowell’s chest pouch, designed by a famous American photographer for rugged
outdoor activities.
On a climb toward Dochia hut.
Larix trees turning yellow.
Vistas were opening when we climbed higher.
Mountain spruce forest with grasses turned yellow in autumn.
At the edge of the plateau.
Reaching a mountain hut called Cabana Dochia, at 1750
m asl, we checked in our rooms. Afterwards we grabbed our cameras and tripods
and hurried outside for an evening shoot. The hut is well situated at the
eastern edge of the plateau, as if it was specially designed for sunrise-hour
photography. Because by now it was too late for sunset-hour photography (the
western edge being farther from the hut), we opted for searching places from
where we would be photographing at sunrise.
When the darkness set on we ate our dinner and after
that we all gathered around a table in order to talk about photography and to
get to know each other. Dorin had ready a list of themes to talk about. Following
the schedule, in a four-day event we discussed list entries one by one, until
we covered all of them. I was eager to learn about Dorin’s philosophy behind
photography and his ideas he had to share with us.
Our first dawn at the edge of the plateau.
Selfportrait taken at dawn.
Another photographer at the margin of the plateau.
Waiting for sunrise.
Morning on the Ceahlau Plateau, Toaca Peak.
One of the most impressive things seen from the
Ceahlau Plateau is a vapour cover above the artificial lake in the valley on
the east side. So we expected sunrise rising above that foggy layer. Dorin had
a drawing, showing a rosette with marked degrees, where rising or setting sun
should appear when observed from the Ceahlau Plateu. It was a good thing for
locating a good angle toward rising sun. We alternated different location
making many pictures, using ND graduated filters. Some among us did not use
filters at all. Dorin himself, for example, makes multiple exposures and
combines them latter in special software (Photoshop). I prefer to use those ND
graduated filters, partly because I don’t use Photoshop and partly because I
don’t feel comfortable about it. I started to take pictures in the days when
Black&White films were generally used. Later I worked with colour
transparency films and since those times I was used to get complete picture directly
in a camera, without tricks like multi-exposure. ND grad filters help a
photographer to get well exposed foreground and background (especially if the
foreground is dark and background is bright, which is most common situation at
a sunrise or sunset).
One advantage of working with graduated filters when
there is great contrast in the landscape scene, far beyond the sensor’s
latitude, instead of making multiple exposures, is that you can photograph
scenes with people or moving objects. You can do it as well without using any
filter, making several exposures within a fraction of a second. Though later
you will have more difficulty in post-process to merge pictures flawlessly
together.
Fog in the valley.
Meteo station below Toaca.
Toaca befor sunrise. In my oppinion the best atmosphere is before sunrise. when the sun comes out, the light become to harsh.
Dochia hut in first sun rays.
Rocks turned orange in first sun rays.
Later they turned yellow.
Rocky walls and needles below the plateau.
Foggy valleys. The ligh was too harsh after the sun rose higher in the sky.
When the landscape is lit from a side, the contrast becomes acceptable.
Also rock pinnacles are lit perfectly.
Our new friend just relax in the sun and show no interest in views into the foggy valleys.
Stanisoarei Mountains on the other side of the Bistritza River valley.
Tarcau Mountains.
In the mid-morning we returned to a hut for a
breakfast. Later we relaxed in our rooms, talking about photography and other
subjects.
Monastery of Stefan the Great and Saint in front of Toaca Peak (1904 m).
After a lunch we set off for a walk to the highest
peak in the area called Toaca (1904 m). While we were atop, Dorin told us some
stories related to a rock pinnacle named Panaghia, which was directly below us
on the north side. On the west we could see the Căliman Mountains, where I was
for three times already. Just next to the Căliman, there was another mountain
range named Munţii Bistriţei. At the time I had no idea that I would be walking
there in just two months. Life is simply surprising! You may never know where
it can get you.
Climbing Toaca with our new friends-local dogs.
The Ceahlau plateau seen from Toaca peak (north to south).
On a narow trail leading to the top.
Views from the top. In the distance are the Bistritza mountains, where I was trekking just two months later.
The is a hut atop Toaca Peak.
View toward Durau.
Table which reads about the famous pyramid apparition seen from Toaca peak at sunrise at the first week of August.
Having returned back to the hut from the Toaca Peak,
we noticed that the hut started to fill with more people, arriving for the
weekend.
Late afternoon we walked in opposite direction, where
the plateau was inclined toward the west. We planned to focus our photography
on sunset-hour. We got on a small grassy ridge with a nearby rock, which looked
like a mushroom and it is called Piatra Lacrâmata. When the light was still
white, we stayed above the rock looking for places from where we would be
shooting toward the sun at sunset. Blueberry leaves were already red and Dorin
suggested that we could take some pictures with them as a foreground. They even
worked well as the main subject in a photograph when backlit by the setting
sun. Later I returned to the rock, when it was turning crimson in the last sun
rays. Then I decided that to rock needs to be integrated into landscape in
another way. I has to be other approach than just orange colour rock set
against blue skies. The rock called for something exciting in the sky. It could
be moon or star trails.
Backlit blueberry leaves glow red.
Piatra Lacramata, a rock formation seen at sunset.
Sunset (HDR image).
Crest of the Rodnei Mountains is seen at a distance of 100 km.
Caliman and Rodnei Mountains.
Piatra Lacramata and moon.
Looking at Durau in the night.
Toaca in the night.
Piatra Lacramata at night. 30 sec exp plus light from a lantern.
Piatra Lacramata, 5 min exposure.
Piatra Lacramata, 80 images combined in a special program for star trails.
After dark we returned to the hut for dinner. Then and
there I discovered that the large group arriving here were student from a
university in Iaşi. I asked, if by accident, weren’t among them some students
who were last year on an excursion in the Vrancea Mountains. At first the reply
was vague, but after a while somebody told me that there were some people who
were in Tulnici last August (2011). So we got together for the second time. In
august 2011 we met at a place called La Stramtura at the base of Muntele Coza,
just out of the village of Coza.
Later at night I returned to the rock and make
one-hour exposure for star trails. It meant going to bed after midnight, even
if the location was only about 20 minutes of walking away from the hut. To
recuperate the camera from there meant 40 min of walking on the trail alone in
the night, plus some time to pack the gear in the backpack. In the cold of the
night minutes count differently than in the warmth of the day. Then I crawled
in the bed.
The cross and Toaca Peak.
Getting my reward
In the morning we were back on the rocks on the
eastern margin of the plateau. We alternated positions as we did on the previous
morning. I just regretted that we can’t photograph in every direction as if we
were on a mountain top. Here on the plateau you have views only in one
direction. When you choose for photographing the sunrise, you will miss events
which go on on the other side. One object which I missed was the twilight wedge
and earth shadow seen on the West in the morning. Dorin has taught us that we
should not get things too seriously and should opt for a single goal at a time.
Luckily there was stable weather during our visit, which had not change for all
four days. It also meant that we had predictably blue skies in our pictures.
Changes which are typical for mountain climate were not presented then. Since
this time everything was still, we should learn to take advantage of it.
Outdoor photographer is reliant on the weather and always needs to accommodate
his goals to fit the current conditions, or to wait for another day.
At dawn on the edge of the Ceahlau Plateau (HDR image).
Sunrise seen from the edge of the plateau.
When the sun is above the horizon it is almost impossible to make good pictures with the sun in the frame without having a lens flare to show in the image.
Photographers fully immersed in their job.
At morning on the edge of the plateau.
Sea of clouds in the valley.
Tarcau Mountains seen from the Ceahlau Plateau.
Autumn colours below the Ceahlau Plateau.
Dwarf pine (Pinus mugo) at the edge of the plateau.
Once again a look into foggy valleys.
Autumn vegetation (Chamaenerion angustifolium).
Happy in the mountains.
Warning sign: Attention Vipers!
At mid-morning we returned to the hut for breakfast. I
need to say that I never ate so well, while I was on a mountain trip. Having
three meals per day was a luxury far beyond my expectations.
Then we took a
rest until mid-afternoon, when Dorin has planned a special outing for us. We
were going to visit to highest peak of the Ceahlau Plateu. The location is
positioned on the south margin of the plateau. This area was very wild and
spectacular. From this part we would be able to see east and west horizon at
the same time!
A raven flying low above dwarf pine grove.
High rock at the south margin of the Ceahlau Plateau. Black spots in the sky just next to the walls are ravens.
Rocky escarp on the south edge of the Ceahlau Plateau.
Walking on the plateau.
Toaca on the north end of the plateau.
Toaca Peak and Dochia hut.
Hasmas (Haghimas) Mountains seen from Ceahlau Plateau.
South extremity of the plateau.
Larix tree turns yellow in autumn.
Lower plateau seen from the high peak.
At the height of autumn colours.
Bicaz lake seen from Ceahlau.
After exploring the plateau of the high peak and
descending down trough a steep ravine, we stoped at flat platform with rocky
walls above another lesser peak, from where we took many pics.
Getting down from the plateu.
Getting down from the plateau.
Looking down on the east side of the plateau.
In contrasty light I needed to useCokin ND graduated filters to balance the difference between shadowed foreground and sunlit background. Even with the filter images are not perfect. I added yet another ND filter in the post-process.
In realm of rocky walls, deep in eastern shadow of the Ceahlau Plateau.
In the realm of overhangs.
Below rock pinnacles.
Emerging on the warm sun light again.
After the descent we were still high above surrounding mountain ranges.
We got on elevated platform below rocky peak.
The diffraction fringe, a fine outdoor optical phenomena mostly found in high mountains.
The image is natural, as the effect appears to naked eye.
Dorin discovered
a nice outdoor optical phenomena called diffraction fringe. Its strange
appearance is quite simple to explain. Light rays bend around an object, when
it is backlit and observed from a proper distance. The sun must be behind the
object and the air must be clear. In lowlands with the air more disturbed the
effect is not as strong. But in high mountains it can be discovered, especially
if you know how to find it.
The highest peak.
A rock column.
Below the highest peak.
The highest peak seems to be isolated, but its a part of the plateau.
When you aim your camera directly into the sun, it difficult to get an images without showing a lens flare, caused by relecting sunrays inside the lens (HDR image).
If you use a filter the resulting image is even worse....
The only way how to avoid lens flare to appear on the image is to block the sun for one frame and then merging several frames in Photoshop into a sigle result. I have yet to finish the image, having had no Photoshop.
Personaly prefer taking pictures after the sunset, when there is less contrast in the scene and ND Grad filters work well.
Looking east.
Looking at highest peak.
Earth shadow and twiligh wedge ar rising on the eastern horizon.
Eastern horizon after sunset.
The light was perfect for silhouete photography.
Human figures need to be integrated into landscape in that way, that the purpose of being there comes clearly across on a viewer. Photographers or walkers after sunset on a horizon do it well. Naked human figures in the mountains don't do that. They need to be photographed on the beach, so that the purpose of being there without clothing (a swim) is rational.
Mountains after sunset.
Just around sunset we walked around the platform and
explored photography possibilities and options. The great subject a rock needle
standing just next the walls of the platform. I focused also on photographing
people as silhouettes. After sunset I was happy to see rising earth shadow on
the east.
Exploring mountains in the night.
When it got almost dark we followed a spectacular trail, leading just
below the rock walls of th high peak. There we discovered with Dorin a great
picture, when viewing two tiny human figures standing under immense rock walls.
We felt like photographers who work for the National Geographic magazine.
We returned to the hut relatively late. On this
evening we talked about last themes left in Dorin’s list of ideas on
photography. This night we did not pursue taking pictures. I wanted to get up a
little earlier then on all previous mornings.
The last day
Waking up just before 6:30 when it was still dark
outside. With Marin we hoped to see an ocean of fog in the valley and stars in
the skies. The stars were there plus some fog in the valleys. I managed to
capture a human figure standing on a rock with the constellation of Orion above
it. This morning I did not wait for the sun to appear and rushed instead to the
eastern margin to observe the twilight wedge and earth shadow. I continued photographing until the light got
flat as the sun was rising higher in the sky.
Between day and night.
The constellation of Orion was still visible at dawn.
Dawn seen from the Ceahlau Plateau.
Mountains at dawn (HDR image).
Mountains at dawn (HDR image).
Mountains at dawn (HDR image).
Dochia hut at dawn.
Monastery of Stefan the Great and Saint at dawn.
Looking north-west at dawn.
Bistritza Mountains seen at down from Ceahlau.
Bistritza mountains at sunrise.
Caliman Mountains at sunrise.
Bistritza and Rarau Mountains at sunrise.
Autumn grass (family of Deschampsia) on the Ceahlau Plateau.
Cetatuia and Calugari rock pinnacles seen against foggy valleys.
Dochia hut seen from below.
After mid-morning breakfast we packed the baggage and
checked out. When descending from the plateau, I talked mainly with Dorin.
Together we shared ideas about nature photography. One of Dorin’s ways of
approaching photography was that we should not take pictures casually. Far
better is to work on series or themes for longer open-term periods of time.
Back at Izvorul Muntelui before we said hallo to each
other we expressed our feelings about the workshop. I said that I came to
attend the workshop for a new experience and to get to know other photographers
to share knowledge with. Afterward we all jumped into the cars and left for
home. It was sunny Sunday at the height of autumn colours. We drove to back
Sighişoara through several mountain passes and valleys. I cried inside and was
happy at the same time. I had just opposite feelings, because of a nice event
we just lived through and because I hate to leave the mountains bathing in the
sun, revealing warm colours of the autumn.
Marin dropped me down at the train station in
Sighişoara. I had several hours left before my train for Budapest came, so I
walked into nearby centre of this medieval town to enjoy its atmosphere. I also
took some photographs there and at sunset I enjoyed a big victory dinner at a
restaurant.
Self-portrait in Sighisoara, taken in a mirror.
Tower with the clock, a historic monument.
Sighisoara is a medieval city. Here Vlad Dracul was born in 1431 A.D.
When I take images in towns, I pretend them to be canyons or mountains instead and approach the subject in the same way as if I were in the mountains.
Myself in the Sighisaora centre at the Student's stairs with a roof, leading toward a lyceum on a hill. The stairs were build in the 17. century.
Autumn colours were blazing in the streets of this medieval city.
Back streets of Sighisoara.
Back streets of Sighisoara.
Back streets (for me canyons of the Colorado Plateau in terms of the light) of Sighisoara.
Tower with the clock, Sighisoara.
Tower with the clock, Sighisoara.
Before going home I had a dinner in this restaurant on the main square.
When I was on the train, still on Romanian territory,
I exhausted my phone battery when talking to my Romanian friends. I bought a
Romanian SIM card for the trip in order to able to make calls within Romania
without international tariff.
This nice ended my autumn Romanian adventure. The
workshop went smoothly, like a clockwork. I learned new things, as I wanted to
do. Plus I honed my skills in Romanian language, because I discovered that I
was able to make calls in Romanian. That thing was impossible for me to manage
just half a year ago!
