Tallness is a word which we habitually associate with
mountains. Though the relative height itself does not necessarily mean that a
certain mountain range reaches high altitude. There is not much of high
altitude terrain in the Czech Republic; in general only an area with altitude
above 800 m, with a level difference between it’s base and top over 300 m, is
believed to be a mountain.
Mountains of the Czech Republic seen from Slovakia.
In our parts the altitude of 800 m demarks a height
where symptoms of mountain climate start to become visible. Under this level
the type of weather is not rough enough to be called mountain climate.
Snowy mountain tops in the end of April, Romania.
After we exclude the necessitate for the minimum
altitude of 800 m for a mountain, the level difference of 300 m between a base
and hill top residue.
Last spring I made a weekend excursion through a such
mountain range in north Hungary, where to be at merely 400 m means to be at a
great loftiness. This cluster of peaks rise over the Danube River up to almost 700
m of altitude (the Danube River is at a height of about 100 m). The mountains
are called Visegrádi Hegység (the Visegrád Mountains) in hungarian language.
The geography and geology of the Visegrád Mountains
are quite complex, and there is no distinct mountain ridge building a natural
pathway. For a tourist a good map is a necessity for making out any realistic
plans for a visit.
In fact there are two neighbouring mountain ranges.
The first one (the Pilis Mountains) on
the south is assembled of limestone and the second one (the Visegrád Mountains)
on the north is build of volcanic rocks.
In preparation for the trip I bought a hungarian map
and surveyed a trail covering a distance of about 50 km. A track this long is
rational enough to be covered in just two days by a fairly trained person
carrying a backpack.
Getting to Visegrád Mountains is easy. There are
direct fast trains several times a day. We simply jumped on a train at Brno and
after three hours arrived at Nagymaros-Visegrád station.
At railway station.
I knew there are ferry-boats across the Danube River,
as there are no bridges on a stretch between Esztergom and Budapest. At home I
changed in advance a little amount of money to cover local transport expenses.
This was the only special preparation for the trip I did. The rest included
normal packing for a usual two-day trip.
On the banks of the Blue Danube River
I was in a company of a friend, Eva, who was a little
uncertain if she would like the Danube River, expecting it to be a muddy
torrent in spring conditions. It was not so! The Danube River is a mountain stream,
fed by waters from melting snows and glaciers in the Alps. Unless torrential
rains come into its watershed, its water has blue colour. It is because it
carries small dust particles (a glacial silt), which gives the river its
colour. The Danube River looses its mountain character between Wiena at the
Bing Bend, where its velocity decreases, thus loosing a capacity to carry big
boulders from the Alps. On the same strech unite tributaries from the
Carpathian Mountains, loaded with loess particles. Beyond Budapest the Danube
River gains a character of a lowland river.
Among the reasons why we set off south at the end of April
was a desire to escape colder weather in our area. We expected to be warm
weather on the Danube River. The hungarian mountains are decidious forest area.
Its forest consist of oak, maple and beech. In early spring when leaves are
translucid and light green, a forest floor is covered with carpet of flowers.
Later,in summer, there is not much to be seen in these forests.
We got off the train. The thermomether registered at
24°C. The blossoming cherry trees
decorated streets of Nagymaros.
Cherry tree at blossom.
We walked toward bank of the big river. The
ferry boat was scheduled to depart every 30 minutes, so we bought tickets (the
fare for a person was aprox. 2 EUR) and passed the time enjoying splendid view
across the river and having a beer. Cheers!
Having a beer at Visegrád-Nagymaros.
On the ferry-boat across the Danube River.
Beyond the river
The trip across the river took only a couple of
minutes. In a short time we landed at Visegrád. Here we had to get oriented
with a map in hand. There also was a tourist indicator. We had to get used to
some differentness here. The indicator showed distances in time, as it is usual
in any mountain area, the Czech Republic excluded. We had to learn that a
letter Ó is abbreviation of a Hungarian word óra, which means an hour in
English; second a letter P is an abbreviation of a Hungarian word perc, which
means a minute in English. The distance of 1 hour is marked as 1 Ó and distance of 50 minutes
is marked a 50 P, for example. The tourist signs look like similar to that in
our parts. They are made of three parallel horizontal bands. The two outer bands
are painted in white in order to be visible from a distance and the inner one
is drawn in particular colour of the track(blue, green, red or yellow). On the
map colours are explained in letters-K (blue), P (red), S (yellow), Z (green)
instead of in colours. It is because all tourist paths are drawn in red line
with a particular letter added. Where two different tracks lead parallel on the
same stretch, two letters are added next to a single line drawn on the map (PZ
for instance).
Getting oriented.
The climb begins
Just before sunset we passed around a church,
searching for a blue marked trail leading to the Fellegvár castle, which dominates the Danube River valley in this area.
The track led us on a rocky ridge covered with oak forest. We were in a hurry
to reach the castle before it got dark. Arriving there we found its gate closed
for the night. Because the time was pressing on us we almost run along tourist
trail, leading through dark beech forest parallel to a road, which went directly
on a ridge. After a while we climbed to a saddle via steep stairs and
crossed the road. Luckily there were some fine meadows, where a fine trail was
winding. After dark we stopped at one place and erected a tent among some
bushes on a meadow margin. At night only
some walkers bypassed us on the trail. They were usually couples or people
having a dog on a lead (or vice versa).
Church at Nagymaros
The Danube River Valley.
Taking a panorama of the Danube River valley, by Eva.
A very long day
Waking up on sunny morning was a real pleasure. We
quickly packed the tent, not wanting anyone to see us overnight here. All my travels
are low-budget trips and I almost never search for an accommodation. I sleep in
a tent, in forest or just under stars. It usually depends on weather conditions
and location. I use money to pay for local transport and food only.
Morning in the Visegrád Mountains. By Eva.
Soon we hit the trail and entered in the forest. The
tourist track led us up a ridge, until we arrived at first look-out point over
the Danube River valley. There are not many such places with good view. And in
plus they are far between. However every trail is blessed with one or two
places with bela vista.
A trail in beech forest.
Bela Vista over the Danube River valley.
I don’t describe what was going on while we walked the
trail, because walking itself was almost event less. At each intersection we had
to deal with a map, to keep us on a proposed track.
Getting oriented.
Crossing a fence.
Beech forests.
At one junction we crossed the road, where we met with
a big group of bicyclist. I did not have much envy, even though it was quite
hot weather for walking with a backpack.
Basically we kept a blue strip which for last four kilometers went parallel with a red strip. The track led us
downhill until we arrived at the village of Pilisszentlászló (at altitude
aprox. 300 m), where we got at noon. In hot weather we took rest at a bar and
drunk a glass of beer, which was a real pleasure in this heat. The weather was
summer-like, and after a long winter we liked it.
A pause for a beer.
Toward rocky ridge and through the Rám Gorge
At the village we had a minor problem with finding a
correct way. When we figured out how to get out of the village, we decided to
take a short pause for a lunch.
Exit from the village led us via steep, though short
climb, then crossed the road twice and get us onto a parking lot at the forest
margin. There we took to the right following the red stripe.
First portion led us down and then up again. In
principle, the track followed the edge of the ridge, with vistas toward the
Danube River opening then and now. We were at altitude of about 500 m!, which
felt like to be in great height here. The very top we were about to reach was
at 639 m!, so there still was a “big “ climb to do!
The distance separating us from from the Danube River
was about 2 hours of walking, which translates into a distance of 5 km as the
crow flies. Somewhere halfway into this stretch I saw a beautiful beetle, named
Morinus funereus in Latin. I was extremely happy to find this species here,
because its occurrence meant that we were within a temperate zone, which was a
way warmer then in our parts. This
species occurs also in the Banat Mountains in Romania, where I saw it for the first
time. This species is absent in zoological records of the Czech Republic.
Morinus funereus.
Forest detail.
Visegrád, from where we started yesterday.
In roughly two hours we got the Prédikáloszék hill (639
m), where the forest was the most beautifull. The forest floor was covered with
carpets of Corydalis cava. I photograped those carpets in our country on the
previous weekend at much lower altitude and now I was happy to see it for the
second time.
Forest floor with Corydalis cava.
Forest floor with Corydalis cava.
Volcanic rocks on forest floor.
After this mountain top the track start to descend
toward the vale, whose bottom laid at merely 200 m. But between us laid a rocky
crest, worth of a visit. Exposed rocks offered splendid view over the valley,
especially toward the highest top Dobogókȍ (699 m). Volcanic rocks were
brownish in colour and were surrounded
with small steppes, especially on the southern slope. The north slopes remained
covered with beech and oak forest.
With Dobogókȍ in backdrop.
Eva with Dobogókȍ in backdrop.
On a rocky ridge.
The most difficult part on a rocky ridge.
Views toward the Danube River.
Volcanic rocks.
Again volcanic rocks.
Looking up.
On the last portion of the rocky ridge.
This portion took us a little more then an hour and
when we arrived at the bottom, just next to the Saint Chapel (Szentta kápolna),
which is places a couple of km above the village of Dȍmȍs. Here we were aprox.
7 km away from the point where we started at yesterday. Though this distance
was along the road, our track on tourist trails was four times longer.
Tourist indicator with arrows at an intersection.
A brook below the Rám Gorge.
Valley is getting narrow.
At narrows deep in the Rám Gorge.
On a leader next to a waterfall in the Rám Gorge.
Probably the most difficult part to pass through.
There we took a little rest, before heading deeper
into the valley. For the first km the track followed a forest road, later it
turned right and entered a narrow valley. We walked along the rivulet, with no
sign of any coming change. A while later the vale narrowed and appeared the
first railing made of stainless steel! I felt like an intrusion of the natural
character of the gorge. Though later where waterfalls appeared, ladders were
added. It was helpful for a safe
passage. Eva got tired after a long walk, but somehow mobilized her energy and
walked briskly ahead of me. She went in silence, which was a symptom of
exhaustion. Other women, whom I know, usually start to talk more, when they get
weary. Simply each person has his or her way of dealing with weariness.
It was obvious that the gorge swept an inundation
recently. The railing and stairs were new and freshly cut wood laid around.
Probably the passageway was destroyed and renewed lately.
Then come the last leader and we entered in upper
valley. There we rested for a while. Originaly I started to think that we would
reach a saddle above the vale and camp somewhere there in the forest. But it
was not so! Just at the head of the valley opened forested basin, where a
fountain was established. In plus a wooden table and a bench were added to sit
on. Since women are excellent manoeuvrers with men I willingly agreed to stay
here overnight.
After that we set up a tent and ate our dinner. After
dinner Eva’s weariness seemed to draw back. Furthermore followed a conversation
over whether I ever get scared being alone in the forest in the night. I admitted
that I don’t feel as well if I am alone in the dark of night. Though when I am
with a buddy I fell no fear at all, and actually being in a forest is a way
safer next to be in a city, so to speak.
Although this place looked scary in approaching darkness I felt only pleasure
and safety here.
Our tent on the second morning.
Topping the Dobogókȍ
Soon after leaving the basin we entered on a forest
road, and crossed it. Then followed a short portion of a forest and then we
crossed the road again. Through the Rám Gorge our track was marked with a green
stripe, here we hit a red stripe, which led from Pilismarót. In roughly one
hour of walking we arrived at a fabulous outlook over the Danube River valley
(the Dabube was 5 km away as the crow flies). In the area several balcons were
added, which offered views on steep north slopes falling down toward the river.
The top itself (699 m) was as flat as a pancake. There was a parking lot and a
restaurant, which served a goulash. This was interesting, since the goulash was
cooked in kettles put directly over a fire in the open air.
Spring greenery in the Danube River valley.
The Danube Rivers seen from Dobogoko.
Panorama of the Danube River valley, seen from Dobogoko.
On a balcony at Dobogoko.
Would you like to have a goulash.
There were several variation of goulash on offer.
The long way to Parkány
Being in a hurry, we didn’t stay there long. To get to
Esztergom, which was more then 15 km away, we had chosen a green strip mark. At
first the trail led on level portion and then descended a little and three
times crossed a road. There at a junction we checked out a distance to
Esztergom to be 14 km, or 3 hours away.
At the intersection.
After the intersection we started to
descend even more and soon we left the coolness of “high altitude” as the air
grew hotter and hotter in proportion with each meter of altitude loss and
departing from the top. Twice we crossed a road and then we lost the way. We
had to return (in climbing) with a map in hand to find o correct direction.
Leaving the heights behind us.
Approaching our destination.
This portion was the most difficult for our navigation skills, and if we had no
map, it could be done with difficulty. With the map in hand it was only a
matter of paying enough attention for details on the trail. We followed a
forested ridge, which was a sequence of tops, marked on our map as
Felsȍ-Ecset-h (478 m), Ráró hegy (488 m), or István tetȍ (451 m) to name a few.
This portion was the most boring of all, especially, when we walked for several
km on a stretch with clear cuts. The heat started to be unbearable, and I
catch myself thinking how it would be here in summer, when highs can reach up
to 38°C.
On one of those tops we ate our lunch and soon
descended into a saddle. There we had to walk on a narrow trail among thick
bushes and dry tall grass. I can't imagine walking through there later in
spring when all vegetation would be green.
Looking back from above the last saddle.
Looking towards Burda Hills in Slovakia, across the Danube River.
Looking back at Vaskapu.
A square in Esztergom.
The peak of Vaskapu, laying ahead of
us, was the last obstacle separating us from the Danube River. The ascend was
steep, though short. The track bypassed the very top at 403 m! From there we
slowly descended to the Danube River level at aproximatelly 100 m. The last part
led us on meadow with open vistas over Esztergom. The last section was quite abrupt
and soon we arrived on streets of Esztergom. We didn’t stop there, walking
brisckly toward the bridge over the Danube River to get to Parkány/Štúrovo on
Slovakian side.
The Eszergom cathedral seen across the Danube River.
Just after 4 pm we got to the Slovakian side, walked
through the town’s center and managed to catch a bus, which got us to a
railway station.
Reaching Parkány/Štúrova in Slovakia.
Thus ended a weekend excursion in north Hungary. In
general it was a fine experience, even though there were no such highlights as
a special alpine environment, for example. Though the landscape does not miss a
grandeaur typical for mountain areas. Our trip was quite an adventure is it was
supposed to be. Anybody can chose his or her own style of the trip. It could be
a tough backpacing event or a mountain run done in several hours instead of days.
It could be a leisure walk with only a daypack, using a car to get to
trails.
